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<1DRESS # SLEEVE CUTTING.^ 



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COPYRIGHT, 1890, BY O. L. WET 



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Price Lis| qryd Tei^rqs. 



DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM, with complete personal 

instructions ______ $10. OO 

One Complete System, with personal instructions in the Amer- 
ican Method _____ lO.OO 

One Complete System, without personal instructions - - S.OO 



^l egeeial jjTzee will "be giverj to ^gerits ot 8 B^ess- 
_rj8L_^e_»s 1 orj aozei] ot? rjalf dozer) lots, (p-tii? terirjs are irj= 
variably (3. (p Ip. unless tr-,8 ordei? is aeeorn-jDariieci witlq 
ttje n]oi]ey. "y"oa oat] buy t^rcmg^ tt)e ^axgress ■g-urerjas- 
irig ageney, oi 3 serja irjoriey by v TpxgT?ess, Ipost (pffise (pT?aei= 
oi 2 l^egiste-ped Ifaettei 8 . _[r| 0T?deiM]g give t-\e rjairje of tt|e 
Syateirj at]a tl|e ^-aarjtity reGpiired, arjcl be sm?e to write 
yotn? r|arr|e arja address as glairily as possible ^ddre&s 
all eoir|rquriicatioT}& arjd orders to 

O. L. WETTERHALL, 

PROPRIETOR, 

Oconomowoc, Wisconsin, U. S. A. 




HutH 01 ^ £ieiric(#js. 



iOROGRKSS and , improvement characterize every, art and science 
^- and within the last few years dressmaking has become an art 
that requires experience, taste and judgment to follow successfully. 
The dressmaker must make and put the garment together properly \ 
drape artistically and have a system of cutting that not only drafts 
perfect fitting dresses and sleeves without refitting, but that will place 
the seams in the most becoming position for each individual person. 
To-day a lady expects to leave her measure and have her dress sent 
to her finished and ready for use. She has neither time or inclina- 
tion to submit to experiments in having her garment fitted by pinning 
in here, letting out there, etc. Devereaux's French System is the : 
result of careful study, and experiments with the various charts, 
machines, tailor-systems, etc., now so widely advertised. While 
most of these charts, machines, etc., claim to draft the pattern by 
actual measure, nine out of ten are merely proportional scales, some 
constructed of metal, called machines, some of pasteboard, called 
charts, and others on squares, called tailor systems. To draft a 
basque these proportional systems usually take from three to five 
measures, bust, waist, under arm length, length of back and shoul- 
der, and guess at the remaining measures; that is, the size of the 
neck, depth of arm-size, slope of shoulder, width of back, width, of 
chest, height of darts, are all made in proportion to the first men- 
tioned actual measures. Experience, however, has taught us that 
we have no reliable rule of proportion, and that for each perfectly 
proportioned person perhaps fifty others can be found with. exactly 
the same bust measure, who differ entirely in shape. This is nothing 
but guess work, and proportional systems, charts, machines, etc., are 
so unreliable as to be absolutely worthless to any dressmaker with the 



DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



least claim to artistic excellence in her profession. Some have no 
sleeve system whatever, while others merely make a pretence of draft- 
ing one miserable, ill-fitting apology for a sleeve. For about forty 
years these proportional charts, machines, etc., have been kept before 
the public only by the most extraordinary exertions on the part of 
the persons handling them. They have been introduced and re-in- 
troduced to the ladies under as many aliases as a pickpocket assumes 
while traveling on a professional tour, and have been known as "The 
Self- Fitting Model," "The Perfection Chart," "The Champion Cut- 
ter," "The Garment Cutter," and "Tailor Systems" by the dozen. 
Upon examination you will find them the same in principle, no mat- 
ter by what name they may be called ; and the idea forces itself on my 
mind that those who teach them are either dishonest or utterly ignor- 
ant of the true principles of garment cutting, and you will no doubt 
agree with me that the former is not unlikely, when you are informed 
that one man has changed the name of his chart three times for no 
other purpose than to mislead the public. In another case a travel- 
ing teacher of the catch penny humbug, not satisfied with changing 
its name, altered her own, and for fear that much vaunted but 
worthless "Tailor System," should be recognized despite its alias on 
being seen in her company, she adopted a French prefix and traveled 
as Madame Lamartine. The other class of machines, tailor 
squares, etc., discard the idea that ladies' forms are proportional and 
take such measures as they think are necessary to fit them. Some 
of these machines, etc., have many good points and were they not 
difficult to learn, slow to use, with faulty and complicated methods 
of drafting they might be more useful. Devereaux's System has wher- 
ever introduced at once proved its superiority to all other systems, 
machines, etc. This success is due to the fact that it drafts the whole 
garment from the neck to the hip entirely by actual measure. It not 
only fits perfectly all sizes and shapes without refitting, but gives the 
most beautiful proportions and graceful curves. It is the only sys- 
tem that uses the depth of arm-size measure, which makes refitting 
on the shoulders entirely unnecessary, and which is now used by all 
the most scientific tailors in the world. It is the only system that 



for scientific dress and sleeve cuttiNc. 3 

teaches both the French and American methods of drafting. Dever- 
eaux's French System alone drafts the pattern of the entire garment 
and divides it into four, six, eight or ten pieces, according to the size 
of the person or style of garment required. This permits the dress- 
maker to follow any fashion, and still place the seams in the most be- 
coming position for each person. With this system the French bias 
and all other styles of darts can be used. It drafts the hip enlarge- 
ment, and a variety of beautiful, perfect -fitting and comfortable 
sleeves, among which are French, American, Cloak, Coat, Bell and 
Lace sleeves. These sleeves are drafted with the top either plain or 
full, with or without gathers at the elbow, and without the un- 
der-arm seam twisting up at the wrist. 

Devereaux's French System consists of a curved rule, life size, 
self- teaching diagrams, and this book of instruction. The rule is 24 
inches long, manufactured of silver maple, or white holly wood, on 
both sides of which are lithographed the inches, scales, and letters 
which designate the curves. It is nicely finished and is convenient 
to use as it combines all the good features of both the square and 
curved rules, and will last a lifetime. The life size self-teaching dia- 
grams illustrate and teach both the French and American methods of 
drafting, which, together with the complete instructions in this book, 
for drafting and cutting dresses, basques, sacques, jackets, sleeves, 
etc., makes it so simple that any lady of ordinary intelligence can 
easily learn to use it successfully. This system is just what dress- 
makers require for their own use and for apprentices, it being perfect- 
fitting, stylish, easily taught, and the price by the dozen is moderate. 
You will find this system one of marked superiority and you owe it 
to yourself not less than to your customers to discard at once and for- 
ever the tedious, ruinous and uncertain proportional methods of fit- 
ting which the march of improvement renders ridiculous, and embrace 
this new, easy, and perfect system, the adoption of which will invest 
your profession with an increase of dignity, respect and profit. 



->^5^^>^I^^^^^^ 



DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH system 



^INSTRUCTIONS FOR MEASURING.^ 



Before beginning to take the measures, see that the lady is prop- 
erly dressed, with a good corset, any necessary extra fullness, and a 
dress that defines the form, etc. Always place a belt or band tightly 
around at the bottom of the natural waist, and remember that a per- 
fect fitting garment can only be produced by first securing perfect 
measures. ' " "■•-' .;. 

First. The NecU Measure. Stand at the back, take the 
measure tight and around the bare neck. Too loose a measure will 
cause a fullness on the shoulder near the neck. 

Second. The Depth of Arm- Size (or armhole). Stand 
at the back, place the middle of the tape line to the back of the neck, 
pass the ends down in front, then back firmly up under the arms and 
straight to the center of the back. The depth of arm-size is the dis- 
tance from the tape at the neck down to where the ends come togeth- 
er at the center of the back. Some dressmakers prefer to make a 
mark with tailor's chalk or a pin where the ends of the tape come 
together at the center of the back and measure from the tape at the 
neck down to this mark or pin. As new beginners usually take this 
measure too deep remember that the average depth of arm-size is 6 
inches. If the measures you take average too deep, making it neces- 
sary to refit on the shoulder, shorten the measure by drawing the 
ends of the tape a little higher where they come together at the cen- 
ter of the back. This is the governing measure for the entire upper 
portion of the garment, and when taken correctly makes refitting on 
the shoulders entirely unnecessary. 

Third. The Width of Bach is taken across the shoulder 
blades at the narrowest place between the armholes, and should be 
just the width you desire the garment to be when finished. This 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEN/E CUTTlNC. 



measure can, however, be taken more accurately by drawing the tape 
firmly around the arm -size and measuring from the tape to the center 
seam of the back; this gives you half the width of back. The width 
of front should be taken in the same manner. 

Fourth, Length of JBack is taken from the back of the 
neck (from where you want the seam) to the lower edge of the belt 
at the waist. Measuring over a short waisted dress, or the skirts 
rolled on the band often causes this measure to be taken too short. 

Fifth. Bust Measure. Stand at the back, pass the tape 
around the fullest part of the bust (not above it) close up under the 
arms, over the shoulder blades, to the center of back, snug, not tight. 

Sixth. The Waist Measure is taken tight and without 
the belt. When taken over the belt, the correcl: measure is one 
inch less. 

Seventh. The Hip Measure is taken seven inches below 
the waist, around the largest part of the form, snug, not tight. . 

Eighth. The Width of Front (or chest) is taken by 
measuring across the front at the narrowest place between the arm- 
holes. It should be taken just the width you desire the garment to 
be when finished. Beginners usually take the widths too wide. 

Ninth. Length of Front. Measure from the neck (at the 
height you want the dress) to the lower edge of the belt at the waist. 

Tenth. The Height of the First Dart. Measure from 
the lower edge of the belt up to a point about a half inch below the 
fullest part of the bust. Don't measure for the second dart, but make 
it a half inch higher than the first. The darts should be made too 
low rather than too high. 

Eleventh. The Length of Skirt*. Measure from the waist 
to the bottom of the skirt, at the front, side and back. 

Proof Measure. The Under- Arm Length is taken from 
close up under the arms to the lower edge of the belt. This is used 
as a proof measure and only when one or both hips are extremely 
high. When necessary correct the pattern with this measure. 
Scrawny forms and slight deformities can be improved and in most 
cases entirely remedied by padding. 



DEN/EREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



^THe sLeeVe ivieasUres.-^ 

First. The Size of Armhole (or arm -size) is taken tight 
around the shoulder joint. 

Second. Length of Sleeve. Measure the length of the un- 
der-arm seam from the armhole to the wrist, with the arm held 
straight out at a right angle from the body. 

PROOF MEASURES- 

The muscle measure is taken half way between the armhole and 
elbow, with the arm half bent, and just as snug as you want the sleeve. 

The elbow measure is taken tight, around the elbow, with the 
arm half bent. 

The hand measure. Measure tightly around the hand with the 
fingers open and the thumb closed to the palm of the hand. 

The sleeve is drafted with the first and second measures, but 
should always be proved, and when necessary corrected by applying 
the muscle, elbow and hand measures, on the pattern for lining be- 
fore you cut it out. 

Remember that you cannot fit anybody with this system unless 
the measures are taken correctly according to these instructions. 
Practice measuring, and when you cut a lining for a person and it 
needs changing, take the measures over again and you will find that 
the measures need just as much changing as the lining. After a few 
trials you will be able to take the measures correctly. Always write 
them down in the order shown below: 

^-PRACTICE ivieasUres.^- 

The large diagrams are drafted from these measures: 

Neck Measure 
Depth, of Arm-Size 
Width of Back - 
Length of Back 
Bust Measure 
Waist Measure 
Hip Measure 
Width of Front 
Length of Front 
Height of First Dart 



INCHES. 




INCHES. 


12 


Length of Skirt, Front 


38 


- 6 


Length of Skirt, Side 


- 38^ 


11 


Length of Skirt, Back 


39 


- 16 


SLEEVE MEASURES. 




34 


Size of Armhole 


- 14 


- 24 


Length of Sleeve 


18 


40 


PROOF MEASURES. 




- 11 


Muscle Measures 


- ioy 2 


14 


Elbow Measure 


- 11 


- 6 


Hand Measure 


7 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTTING. 



<IHoW to teacH YoUrseLf tHis sYsteiv|.|> 

After having mastered the measure, you next learn how to draft 
the pattern. Always employ our authorized agent, as it is to their in- 
terest to have you understand it thoroughly. Where, however, we 
have no agent you can with a little patience and perseverance easily 
teach yourself from the printed instructions. The drafting is done 
entirely with the rule, the large diagrams being merely life size pat- 
terns, with each point numbered 1,2, 3, etc., in the order in which 
it is to be located. Thus Pt. 1 is the starting point, Pt. 2 is the next, 
etc. As the instructions in the book are complete, it is only neces- 
sary to lay the rule on the diagrams according to the instructions 
and notice how each point and curve is obtained. After going over 
the diagram a few times in this manner you should easily draft a pat- 
tern by the same or different measure. 

<1DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH METHODS 

(SEE XDI^^G-S.^^3yC) 

Drafts the pattern of the entire garment and divides it according 
to the size of the person or the style of garment required. The large 
diagram, being the pattern for an ordinary sized person is divided 
into a back, side, underarm and front piece. This is most frequent- 
ly used and is drafted as follows : Place the rule with the straight 
edge, about one inch from the edge of the paper, and with the square 
end at the right hand. Draw a base, or foundation line along the en- 
tire length of the straight edge, and line one across the end of the 
rule. Without moving the rule locate Pt. 1 by marking at the neck 
measure (12) in scale -A_, and Pts. 2 and 3 by marking at the depth of 
arm-size. (6) in scales 3=3 and O. Place the square end of the rule 
to the base line, with the edge to Pt. 2, draw line 2 and locate Pt. 4 
by marking at the width of back (11) in scale ID . Place the end of 
the rule to the base line at Pt. 3, draw line 3, and locate Pt. 5 by 
marking at the width of back (11) in scale 3D, and Pt. 6 by marking 
at bust measure (34) in scale IB. Place the end of rule to line 3 with 
the straight edge even with Pt. 6 and draw the base line of the front 



DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM! 



as far down as necessary. Continue this base line above Pt. 6 by slid- 
ing the rule up along the base line until the square end is 6% inches 
above Pt. 6, finish the base line and draft line i across the end of the 
rule. The distance line i is above Pt. 6 should always be a half 
inch more than the depth of arm-size measure used. Without mov- 
ing the rule locate Pts. 7 and 8 by marking at neck measure (12) in 
scales ZET 1 and G- and Pt. 9 by marking at the depth of arm-size (6) in 
scale ZEEL. Draft line 2 at a right angle from the base line at Pt. 9. 
To locate Pt. 10 place the rule to line 3 with the end to Pt. 6 and 
mark at width of front (n) in scale I. Always draft line 4 parallel 
with and 1% inch below line 3. Draft the outlines of the shoulder, 
armhole and neck, as follows : Place the O curve on the rule to Pt. 
1, swing the rule to Pt. 4, draft the shoulder and notice the length 
(5^) in scale S. Next draft the front shoulder by placing the O 
curve on the rule to Pt. 7, swing the rule and locate Pt. 11 where 
(5^) the length of the back shoulder, in scale T touches line 2. 
Draft the front curve of the armhole by placing the curved end of 
the rule to line 4 with the edge to Pts. 10 and 11. Draft the back 
curve of the armhole by placing the curved end of the rule to line 4 
with the edge to Pts. 5 and 4. To draft the neck place the neck 
curve on the rule to Pt. 8 and swing to Pt. 7. To locate Pt. 12 
measure from line 1 down the base line (16 inches) the length of the 
back. Always place Pt. 13 seven inches below Pt. 12. To locate 
Pt. 14 measure from Pt. 8 down the front base line (14 inches) the 
length of the front. Always place Pt. 15 seven inches below Pt. 14. 
Place the rule across the pattern from Pt. 12 to Pt. 14 and locate Pt. 
16 in the center, just half way across. Make Pt. 17 one inch 
above Pt. 16. This point may be placed higher, or lower, according 
to the underarm length, which is not often necessary. Draw line 5 
(the waist line) from Pts. 14 to 17 and 12. Draw line 6 (the hip 
line) from Pt. 13 to Pt. 15. To locate Pts. 18, 19 and 20 place the 
end of the rule to Pt. 12, with the edge to the waist line, and mark 
at the waist measure (24) in scales CT, IKI and Xj. To locate Pts. 
21, 22 and 23 place the end of rule to Pt. 13 with the edge to the hip 
line and mark at the hip measure (40) in scales IMI, IDsT and O. 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTTlNC. 



Locate Pt. 24 on the curve ^ inch below Pt. 5. Draft the curves 
or outlines (as shown by diagram) from Pt. 24 to 20 and 23. Then 
from Pts. 18 and 19 down to the hip and from Pt. 18 up to the base 
line at the neck. The location of Point 25 is optional with the cut- 
ter, but is usually placed on the armhole curve a little below the cen- 
ter between Pts. 4 and 5. Draft the outline from Pt. 25 to 19. Place 
the square end of the rule to the bust line, with the edge to Pt. 24 
and draw a straight line from Pt. 24 down to the waist line. Locate 
Pt. 26 where this line crosses the waist line. Locate Pt. 27 by plac- 
ing the rule to the hip line with the end to Pt. 15, and mark at 40 the 
hip measure in scale 3?. Draft the outline from Pt. 26 to 27. Make 
Pt. 28 % inch from Pt. 24 and finish the outline. Next draft the two 
bust darts. Place the end of the rule to Pt. 14, with the edge to the 
waist line and locate Pt. 29 two inches frcm Pt. 14. Pt. 30 is 1^ 
inches frcm Pt. 29. Pt. 31 is one inch from Pt. 30, and Pt. 32 is 1% 
inches from Pt. 31. Pts. 33 and 34 are the centers of the darts. 
The width of the bust darts at the waist is determined by the taper 
or difference between the bust and waist measures. In this pattern 
the bust is 34, waist 24; difference or taper 10 inches. This 10 inch 
taper requires two bust darts each 1% inches wide between pts. 29 and 
30 and pts. 31 and 32. Make each dart % inch wider for each inch 
the taper increases, and % inch narrower for each inch the taper de- 
creases. Draw the center line of the darts parallel with the front 
base line and locate pt. 35 above the waist line the number of inches 
(6) taken for the height of this dart. Make the second dart at pt. 36 
a half inch higher than the first. Draft the dart outlines the same as 
the diagram. Next draft the hip dart, or rather hip seam. Place 
the edge of the rule to pt. 17, with the end square against the bust 
line and locate pt. 37 on the armhole curve and pt. 38 on the hip 
line. Make pt. 39 one inch forward and pt. 40 two inches back from 
pt. 38. The width of the hip dart at the waist between pts. 41 and 
42 is generally l /> inch, but may be more or less, according to the 
width of the bust darts. The only reliable way is to begin at pt. 18 
and measure the entire waist line of the pattern, leaving out the space 
between pts. 20 and 26, and the width of the bust darts. In this di- 



DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



agram it measures 12^ inches, and as we only need 12 inches (half 
of 24, the waist measure) we make the dart x /z inch wide between pts. 
41 and 42. Draft the outlines of the hip dart first above then below 
the waist as per diagram, the dart coming to a point at the arm- 
hole. As in this dart, below the waist the curves of the underarm 
piece and front are drafted over each other, some prefer a wide hip 
dart. For a wide hip dart draft the pattern the same to pt. 6, extend 
the bust line and make a point two inches beyond pt. 6. From this 
new point draft the front base line and pattern the same as before, ex- 
cept you make the hip dart two inches wide at the armhole, 2^ inch- 
es or more at the waist. The dart curves below the waist do not 
cross, but come to a point % inch back from pt. 38. Locate pt. 27 
by placing the end of the rule to pt. 15, and mark at 40 the hip meas- 
ure in scale HR». Notice the wide hip dart in the American diagram. 
The curved front is necessary for ladies with a large, prominent bust. 
Before cutting out the pattern read the instructions, how to cut lin- 
ing, etc. 



T^pT" 



^^3) 



-#^:DARTS.« 



With this system all styles of darts can be used. One, two or 
three bust darts, and one or two hip darts, as required by the size of 
the person or style of garment to be drafted. Two bust darts are 
most frequently used. When the taper is less than eight inches use 
one bust dart, which is placed just half way between the base line and 
the hip dart. Three bust darts can be used only for very large, 
fleshy persons, the third dart being placed half way between the sec- 
ond bust dart and the hip dart. Make the width at the waist from a 
half to one inch, and add the same amount to the size of the waist 
at pt. 26. For a medium sized person one hip dart is sufficient. Two 
hip darts, however, are necessary for all persons whose bust measure 
exceeds 45 inches. This is done by placing one dart one-third and 
the other two-thirds the distance between pts. 26 and 32. Make 



for scientific dress aNd sleeve cuttiNc. II 

each of these hip darts at the armhole, waist, and hip line, just half 
the width required for a single dart. The width of the darts at the 
waist is determined by the taper, or difference between the bust and 
waist measures. Thus: bust 36, waist 24; difference or taper 12 in- 
ches. For this 12 inch taper make each bust dart two inches wide, 
which is the widest bust dart used. When the taper is 13 inches or 
more, use the two inch bust darts, and make the hip dart enough 
wider to make the pattern at the waist the same size as the waist 
measure taken from the person. Narrow each bust dart % inch for 
each inch less taper. Some prefer to narrow the first dart ^ inch 
and widen the second to correspond. While the taper rule for the 
width of darts is correct, the fullness for the bust does not depend 
entirely on the bust darts, but also on the curved front, and we vary 
them to a certain extent to suit the stomach and hips. When the 
hips are large and the bust and stomach small, narrow the bust darts 
each y^ inch and widen the hip dart % inch. When the stomach is 
flat and the bust very large, make the bust darts each one-quarter 
inch narrower and give a one-half inch curved or swell front. When 
the stomach is large and the bust small, draft the bust darts with in- 
ward curve below the waist. Always be sure to give sufficient full- 
ness over the hips. Locate pt. 29 from 1% to 2 inches from pt. 14. 
The space between the darts at pts. 30 and 31 varies from % to one 
inch in width. The bust darts are usually parallel with 
the front, but can be drafted in any position to suit the customer's 
taste or prevailing style. The appearance of the bust is improved 
by drafting the top of the darts with the curves reversed as shown on 
the first dart in the American diagram. 

->;tHe FRENCH bias DART-^ 

The dotted lines on the American diagram show you how to add 
the bias dart to a common basque pattern. Begin by widening the 
second dart i^inch from pt. 17 to pt. A, and 4 inches from pt. 22 to 
pt. B. Draft the outlines from pt. 21 to A and B the same as before. 
Locate pt. C 1^ inch from pt. 29, and >^ inch above pt. 24. Locate 
pt. D 4 inches from pt. 30. Locate pt. E one-half inch above pt. 27. 



12 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



Draft the outlines from pt. E to C and D. This makes the second 
dart 3 inches wide between pts. 16 and A, 4 inches wide between pts. 
22 and B, and widens the garment from pts. 29 and 30 to pts C, 
D and E to correspond. The underarm piece remains unchanged. 
Trace the front and underarm piece separately on the lining, as the 
outlines cross below the waist. The advantage of having the goods 
on the bias is that the cloth draws in nicely over the hip and above it 
to the armhole. For large, fleshy ladies it is desirable, but can only 
be used for basques, jackets, etc. 

^•instructions for sLeen/e cUttiNg.-^ 

One of the most important parts of the dress is the sleeve. Many 
a dressmaker has almost ruined her business by trying to cut sleeves 
for all her customers from the same pattern. They would wrinkle 
across the muscle, have the elbow in the wrong place, bind the arm 
down, draw across the back, twist up at the wrist, and be more or less 
faulty in almost every case. With this system and life-size, self- teach- 
ing diagrams, you can teach yourself to draft perfect sleeves. You will 
notice that each point in the diagram is lettered alphabetically in the 
order in which it is to be located. Thus, pt. A is the starting point, 
pt. B is the next, etc. Place the rule on the diagram according to 
these instructions and notice how each point and curve is obtained. 
After going over the diagram a few times in this manner you will be- 
come so familiar with the sleeve that you can easily draft one frcm 
the same or different measures. The measures used for drafting the 
sleeve diagrams are given below: 



sleeve measures. 




. PROOF MEASURES. 






INCHES. 




INCHES. 


Sizeof Armhole 


- 14 


Muscle Measures 


- ioy 2 


Length of Sleeve 


18 


Elbow Measure 


- 11 






Hand Measure 


7 




FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTHNC. 13 



-^•HoW to draft THE AMERICAN sLeeVe.-^ 

SEE DIAGRAM. 

Place the rule with the straight edge about one inch from the 
edge of the paper, with the square end at the right hand. Draw a 
baseline along the entire length of the straight edge, and line one 
across the square end of the rule. Without moving the rule locate pts. 
A and B by marking at (14) the size of the armhole in scales 1 and 2. 
Locate pt. C by measuring from pt. B down the base line (9 inches) 
half the length of the sleeve. Locate pt. D by measuring from pt. B 
down the base line (18 inches) tlie full length of the sleeve. Locate 
pt. Eon the base line \]/^ inch below pt. D. Draft lines 2, 3, 4, 
which are right angles from the base line at pts. A, C, E. Locate 
pt. F by placing the end of the rule to the base line, at line 1 and 
mark at (14) the size of the armhole in scale 2. Locate pts. G and 
H by placing the end of the rule to the base line, at line 2, and mark 
at (14) the size of the armhole in scales 2 and 3. Locate pts. I, J, 
K by placing the end of the rule to the base line at line 3 and mark 
at (14) the size of the armhole in scales 1, 4, 3. Locate pts. L and 
M by placing the end of the rule to the base line at line 4 and mark 
at (14) the size of the armhole in scales 5 and 6. Draft the outlines 
from pt. H to K and M, from pt. M to D, from pt. I to B and D, 
from pt. F to H and B, and from pt. B to G as per diagram. Before 
drafting the outline of the underpiece between pts. G, J and L apply 
the muscle, elbow and hand measures and make the size of the sleeve 
correspond with those measures by widening or narrowing the out- 
line of the underpiece from pt. G to J and L. For a sleeve without 
gathers at the elbow continue the underpiece down to line 4 as shown 
by the dotted lines in the diagram . To baste the sleeve begin at the 
armhole and baste the inside seam first. Then put the back seam 
together at the top and hand and baste evenly up to within two 
inches of the elbow. The upper piece of the sleeve at the elbow is 
gathered up on a thread and basted to the underpiece. Whatever 
fullness there may be in the sleeve will then be in its proper place. 



14 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



It is very important to put the sleeve in properly at the armhole, as 
it will twist if not right. The highest point of the sleeve goes to 
the highest point of the shoulder. Take a small seam in the sleeve 
and armhole. Baste evenly up to the shoulder seam; from there up 
over the shoulder full the sleeve. For puff sleeves or when the 
shoulder is very short add goods at the top of the sleeve at pt. F. 
When cutting don't forget to allow seams around each piece except 
at the armhole and wrist. 

^■HoW jo DRAFT THE FRENCH sLeen/e.-^ 

SEE DIAGRAM. 

This sleeve has no back seam from the shoulder to the elbow, it 
being cut on the fold of the goods. Place the rule on the paper with 
the square end at the right hand. Draft a base line the entire length 
of the straight edge and line one across the end of the rule. With- 
out moving the rule locate pts. A and B by marking at (14) the size 
of the armhole, in scales 7 and 2. Locate pt. C on the base line 
(9 inches) half the length of the sleeve below pt. B. Locate pt. D 
on the base line (18 inches) the full length of the sleeve below pt. B. 
Locate pt. K 1% inch below pt. D. Draft lines 2, 3, 4 and 5, which 
are right angles from the base line at pts. B, C, D and K. To locate 
pts. G and H, place the end of the rule to the base line, with the 
edge to line 2 and mark at (14) the size of the armhole in scales 4 
and I. To locate pts. I and J place the end of the rule to the base 
line, with the edge to line 3, and mark at (14) the size of the armhole, 
in scales 6 and 4. To locate pts. K, L and M place the end of the 
rule to the base line, with the edge to line 5, and mark at (14) the 
size of the armhole in scales 2, I and 3. Draft the curves or out- 
lines as shown by the diagram. Apply the muscle, elbow and hand 
measures, and correct the sleeve when necessary. In cutting allow 
% inch seams around each piece except at the armhole, hand and 
fold line. This sleeve has no fullness, or gathers at the elbow and is 
often used for lace sleeves. A puff sleeve is made by adding goods 
to the top of the sleeve above pt. F. For a bell sleeve don't cut 
out the piece on the back of the sleeve, from the elbow to the wrist, 
but continue the fold of the goods to the wrist line. 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTTlNC. 15 



^•HoW to DRAFT THE cLoaK or coat sLeeVe.-^- 

As we have no diagram for the cloak sleeve, we use the Amer- 
ican sleeve diagram only to show you the order in which the points 
are located. For all outside garments you draft the sleeve with a one 
inch larger size. of armhole measure, and when drafted the muscle, 
elbow and hand measures must prove up one inch larger than would 
be required for a dress sleeve. Place the rule on the paper and draw 
a base line the entire length of the straight edge, line one across the 
end, and locate points A and B by marking at (15) the size of the 
armhole, in scales 7 and 2. Locate pt. C on the base line, half the 
length of the sleeve (9 inches) below pt. B. Locate pt. D on the 
base line (18 inches) the full length of the sleeve below pt. B. Lo- 
cate pt. E on the base line one inch below pt. D. Draft lines 2, 3 
and 4 which are right angles from the base line at pts. A, C, E. 
To locate pt. F place the end of the rule to the base line with the 
edge to line one and mark at (15) the size of the armhole in scale 2. 
To locate pts. Q and H place the end of the rule to the base line 
with the edge to line 2 and mark at (15) the size in the armhole in 
scales 6 and I. To locate pts. I, J, K place the end of the rule to 
the base line with the edge to line 3 and mark at (15) the size of the 
armhole in scales 7, 4 and I. To locate pts. L and M place 
the rule to line 4 with the end to the base line and mark at (15) 
the size of the armhole in scales 5 and 6. Draft the outlines as fol- 
lows: Place C on the rule to pt. H and swing to pt. K. Place C to 
pt. G and swing to pt. J. Place C to pts. J and K and swing to pts. 
L and M. A to pt. I and swing to pt. D. C to pt. I and swing to 
pt. B. Draft the outlines of the top the same as the American 
sleeve. Draw the wrist line from pts. M to D. As we want no 
gathers at the elbow, lengthen the underpiece at the wrist to line 4 
as shown by the dotted lines. Allow half inch seams except at arm- 
hole and wrist. 



16 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



<IDEVEREAUX'S AMERICAN METHODS 

(SEE AMERICAN DIAGRAM) 
Drafts the pattern of the back and front separately. For the 
convenience of dressmakers who, having one of Devereaux's previ- 
ous systems, draft in this manner, we give the following instructions: 
Always begin by drafting the back. Place the rule with the straight 
edge about one inch from the edge of the paper and the square end 
to the right hand. Draw a base or foundation line the entire length 
of the straight edge, and line one across the square end of the rule. 
Without moving the rule locate point i by marking at (12) the neck 
measure, in scale A, and points 2 and 3 by marking at (6) the depth 
of armsize in scales B and C. Locate pt. 4 by measuring from line 
one, down the base line (16 inches) the length of the back. Pt. 5 is 
always located 7 inches below pt. 4. Draft lines 2,3,4 an d 5, which 
are right angles from the base !ine, at pts. 2,3,4 an d 5- Locate pt. 
6 by placing the rule with the end to the base line, the edge to line 
2, and mark at the width of back (11) in scale D. Locate pt. 7 by 
placing the rule with the end to the base line, the edge to line 3, and 
mark at the the width of back (n) in scale D. Locate pts. 8, 9 and 
10 by placing the end of the rule to the base line, with the edge to 
line 4, and mark at the waist measure (24) in scales J, K and L. Lo- 
cate pts. 11,12 and 13 by placing the end of the rule to the base line, 
with the edge to line 5, and mark the hip measure (39) in scales M, 
N and O. Next draft the curves or outlines as shown by the diagram . 
First place C on the rule to pt. 1, swing the rule to pt. 6, draft the 
shoulder, and notice the length in scale S (5^ inches), as the front 
shoulder must be made % inch shorter. Place G on the rule to pt. 
6, swing to pt. 7, and draft the armhole. Place C to point 7 and 
swing to pt. 10; draft the outline and measure the length between 
points 7 and 10 (10 inches), as the length of the seam on the front 
between pts. 9 and 12 must be made the same. Place C to pt. 10, 
swing to pt. 13, and draft the outline. Place B to pt. 9, swing to 
pt. 12, draft the outline of the back piece, then turn the rule over, 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTTING. 



place B to pt. 9, swing to pt. 11 and draft the outline of the side- 
piece. Place B to pt. 8 and swing to the base line at line 5. Draw 
a straight line from pt. 8 to the base line at line. one. Locate pt. 14 
on the armhole curve about % inch below the center between pts. 6 
and 7. Place E on the rule to pt. 14, swing to pt. 9 and draft the 
outline. The location of pt. 14 and the shape of this seam, which 
divides the back' and side pieces, can be changed to suit the prevail- 
ing style or a parson's taste or can be left out entirely for a French 
back or when drafting for children. As the outlines of the back 
and side pieces are drafted over each other below the waist, it is 
necessary to first trace out the back piece, then move the pattern and 
trace out the side piece. Remember that the outline from pts. 9 to 
12 belongs to the back and from pts. 9 to 11 to the side piece. In 
cutting allow % inch seams around each piece except at the armhole 
and neck. 

^-HOW TO DRAFT THE FRONTS 

(SEE AMERICAN DIAGRAiyi) 
Place the rule with the straight edge about one inch from the 
edge of the paper and the square end at the right hand. Draw a base 
line along the entire length of the straight edge, line 1 across the 
square end, and locate pt. 1 by marking at the neck measure (12) in 
scale Z. To locate pt. 2, turn the rule over directly toward you, 
keep the edge to the base line, the end even with line 1, and mark at 
the depth of armsize (6) in scale H. Locate pt. 3 by marking at the 
neck measure (12) in scale G. To locate pt. 4, measure from line 1 
down the base line (6}4 inches); always make this point y 2 . inch low- 
er than the depth of armsize measure taken from the person. Locate 
pt. 6 by measuring from pt. 3 down the base line (14 inches) the 
length of front. Pt. 6 is always located 7 inches below pt. 5. Place 
the end of the rule to the base line at pt. 4, draw line 3 (the bust 
line) and locate pt. 7 by marking at the width of front (11) in scale 
D. To locate pt. 8, place (n), the width of the back in scale D, to 
pt. 4, with the edge of the rule to line 3, and mark at the bust meas- 
ure (34) in scale K. Pt. 9 is located 2 inches beyond pt. 8; this 2 



18 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 

inches is allowed to make up for the 2 inches to be taken up by the 
hip dart at the armhole between pts. 25 and 26. Locate pt. 10 a half 
inch from pt. 9. Line 4 is always drawn 1% inch below, and paral- 
lel with line 3. Next draft the outlines of the neck, shoulder and 
armhole, as follows: Place the neck curve on the rule to pt. 3, swing 
the rule to pt. 1, and draft the neck. To locate pt. 11, place C on 
the rule to pt. 1, swing to line 2, and mark at the length of shoulder 
(5 inches) in scale S, and draft the shoulder. This makes the front 
shoulder % inch shorter than the back shoulder. Place the curved 
end of the rule to line 4, with the edge to pts. 7 and n, and draft 
the front curve of the armhole. Place I on the rule to pt. 10, swing 
to line 4, and draft outline. Place the square end of the rule exactly 
against the bust line, with the straight edge even with pt. 9, draw a 
line along this edge down to the waist, and locate pt. 12 exactly (10 
inches) below pt. 9. This makes the distance between pts. 9 and 12 
the same as between pts. 7 and 10 on the back. Place C on the rule 
to pt. 10, swing to the straight line between pts. 9 and 12 and finish 
the outline. Place C on the rule to pt. 12, swing the rule to pt. 5, 
and draw the waist line (line 5). Place the end of the rule to the 
base line at pt. 6, draw the hip line (line 6), and locate pt. 13 by 
marking at the hip measure (39) in scale R. Place C on the rule to 
pt. 12, swing to pt. 13 and draft the outline. Next draft the two 
bust darts. Place the edge of the rule to the waist line with the 
end to the base line and locate pt. 14 two inches from pt. 5. The 
width of the darts between pts. 14 and 15, 16 and 17 depends on the 
taper or difference between the bust and waist measures. Thus: bust 
35, waist 24, taper or difference 11 inches. This taper requires two 
bust darts each 1^ inch wide, or the first dart can be made i}4 inch 
and the second 2 inches wide, and the space between them at pts. 15 
and 16 is one inch. Make pts. 18 and 19 in the center of the 
darts. Draw a line up through the center of each dart parallel with 
the base line and locate pt. 20 as many inches above pt. 19 (6) as re- 
quired by the height of dart measure taken. Always make the 
second dart about }4 inch higher than the first. Draft the 
dart outlines as shown by the diagram. Always reverse 



FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTHNC. 19 

the curve and draft the top of the bust darts as shown 
by the dotted lines at pt. 20. Next locate the center 

of the hip dart, pt. 24, exactly half way between pts. 12 and 17. 
Make pt. 25, which is the center of the hip dart at the armhole, just 
the same distance from the base line as pt. 24. Make the hip dart 
two inches wide between pts. 26 and 27. The width of the hip dart 
at the waist between pts. 28 and 29 is usually from 2)4 to 3 inches. 
This width is obtained by measuring the entire waist line 
of the pattern; first between pts. 7 and 10 on the back (3% inches) 
which added to (14^2 inches) the distance between pts. 5 and 12 on 
the front, makes l%% inches, less (3^2 inches) the width of the bust 
darts, leaves 14^ inches; as we only require (12 inches) half of (24 
inches) the waist measure, we make the hip dart 2^ inches wide 
between pts. 28 and 29. The bottom of the dart at pt. 30 is placed 
y 2 inch farther from the base line than pt. 24. Draft the outlines 
of the hip dart as shown by the diagram. The dotted lines at the 
hip have nothing to do with this pattern except to show you how to 
change it to the French bias dart when required. 

^•HoW to cUt THe Li|vJi|vlG.-^ 

Having drafted the pattern pioperly, the next thing in order is the lining. The 
material is usually good silesia, cotton satteen, or linen and must be soft and pliable if 
a faultless fit is what we desire, Double the lining crosswise of the goods, place it on 
the cutting table, pin the pattern securely to it, then with a tracing wheel trace the out- 
lines of each piece, also the darts, waist lines, etc. Be sure that the marks of the wheel 
show distinctly through the double lining. As the pieces are drafted over each other 
below the waist it is necessary after tracing around the first piece to move the pattern 
so that the next piece, when traced, will be separated below the waist at least 
one inch from the first. Cut the lining crosswise that it may when worn 
stretch in length and not in width. Linings cut lengthwise should be made 
'% inch longer than the outside. This % inch must be fulled and basted evenly on the 
outside goods for a space of 3 inches above the waist. Allow seams by cutting out 
each piece y 2 inch outside of the tracings, except at the armhole and neck. Allow \y z 
inch on the front for the hem or lap. For a double breasted garment allow 3 or 4 
inches on the front for the lap. If necessary to piece the lining it should be done by 
laying the edges one over the other before stitching, making a smooth, flat surface. 
Anything that prevents the outside from laying smooth and even on the surface, should 
be avoided. 



20 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH system 



^-HoW jo cUt THe oUtside material.-^ 

The way of cutting the material has more to do with the fit of the garment than 
is generally supposed. Place the goods on the table with the wrong side up, and the 
wrinkles nicely smoothed out. Lay on every piece of the lining, changing them from 
one place to another until they lay closely together, and can be cut without wasting 
the goods. Be especially careful to cut each piece with the grain running exactly 
lengthwise of the goods. This will bring the side and back pieces the straight way 
of the goods, and there will be no danger of the side piece "drawing," which is al- 
ways the case when they are in the least bias. Cut the fronts lengthwise of the material 
and straight on the front edges. Ladies standing very erect, or with large busts 
require the front curved. In such cases the buttons should be placed along the curve 
a sufficient distance from the edge to prevent the fronts from spreading. In cutting 
striped or plaid goods try to have the stripe or plaid match perfectly all the way up the 
front and back of the waist, and also to have those in the side and back pieces corres- 
pond. This can almost always be done by moving the goods a little one way or the 
other. In goods that are figured, or have a nap, or pile, be careful to cut the pieces 
with the figures all the same way, the nap of the cloth running downward, 
and the pile of the velvet, or plush running upward, or downward if preferred, but cut 
all the pieces the same way. Cut the part of the sleeve above the elbow the straight 
way of the goods so that the bias part will come at the wrist. If the goods will not 
admit of it, cut the upper parts so, and do the best you can with the under parts. 
Sleeves having no seam on the back, may be cut either straight or bias down the, back, 
according to the fancy, but are usually cut straight. In cutting the skirt evei"y bias 
edge should be cut at least ]/ 2 inch longer than the straight edge, and must be fulled on 
evenly in basting. In cutting a suit, first cut out the basque and overskirt, or the 
polonaise and you will most likely get the sleeves, or the underparts at least out of the 
pieces. Then cut the skirt, leaving the facing and trimming to the last and use up the 
pieces for them. The outside of the sleeve should be cut exactly the same size and 
shape as the lining, being careful not to cut two pieces alike for the same sleeve, which 
may easily be done where there is a right and a wrong side to the goods. If there is 
a figure in the design be careful not to cut the goods wrong side up. In cutting a skirt 
the front edge of the pieces must always be straight and the bias edge toward the back. 







FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEVE CUTTING. 21 



^-bastiNg AND fiNisHiNg.-^ 

Having cut the outside goods, the next thing is to put it together properly. Plnce 
the goods on the table with the wrong side up, and with the wrinkles smoothed out, 
then lay the lining of the front on the goods and fasten it by pins to hold it in place. 
Baste all around in the tracings, the basting threads becoming good guides for the 
seams. Slender forms are improved by basting one or two thicknesses of wadding on 
the lining above the darts, and in the upper parts of the sleeve, from the top to the 
elbow. This must be done before basting the lining to the outside. Baste the other 
pieces of the lining to the outside in the same manner, and begin to baste the pieces 
tOTether. Fold the darts in the center with the outsides together, and baste exactly in 
the tracings, commencing at the waist, and baste the pieces accurately together up the 
center of the back. Plaids or stripes must be carefully matched. Baste the side pieces 
to the back, and as they have a tendency to stretch, commence at the bottom of the waist 
and baste to the armhole. Begin at the neck and baste the front and back shoulder 
seams together and as the front shoulder is a little the shortest it must be stretched to 
prevent wrinkles. Begin at the armhole and baste the side and underarm pieces to- 
gether. Baste the hip seam evenly, beginning at the armhole. To prevent the armhole 
from stretching use a strong thread or cord around it when basting. The basting com- 
pleted, each part of the garment should be compared with the measures taken from the 
person, and if they agree in every particular, giving the amount of fullness necessary 
at the diffeient points, then stitch the seams exactly on the bastings. Dresses should 
always be finished with an inside belt, fastened on each seam, to relieve the outside 
goods of the strain at the waist. Turn the lap in at the front. Instead of a belt some 
prefer to sew on a small hook and eye piece at the waist line. Baste the lining to the 
outside of the sleeve, and join the inside seam first, then put the back seam together at 
the top and baste evenly up within two inches of the elbow. The upperpart of the sleeve 
at the elbow is gathered on a thread, and basted to the under part. This puts whatever 
fullness there may be in its proper place. Put the sleeve on and mark the places on 
both the sleeve and waist that are to be joined in basting. Baste the outside and lin- 
ing of the skirt evenly and smoothly together. To baste the seams of the skirt, pin 
the breadths at the top and bottom, then in the center, being careful to evenly distribute 
the fullness allowed when cutting the biased edges. Stitch the seams holding the fulled 
side next the feed. The canvas or facing must be cut an exact bias, so that it can, 
when basted, be stretched a little at the bottom and fulled at the top. You may com- 
plete the skirt except putting on the band before trying on. If any of the breadths of 
the skirt should be too long, they may, before being faced, or sewed into the braid, 
be cut otf or turned in at the top. Clip all curved seams near the waist. The inside 
seams of the waist must be pressed open and finished by turning in the edges of the 
lining and goods and overcast evenly with colored silk. On fine dresses bind each edge 
with narrow silk ribbon. Simply notch the edges on very heavy goods. Make the 



22 DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 

casings for the whalebones of a narrow piece of lining, or silk, cut bias, and nicely 
stitched on each seam, or featherbone can be sewed on with cross stitches. Ihei^ 
inch allowed for lap on each side of the front should be turned under on the right side 
and hemmed for the facing, and buttonholes, leaving the left side out for the underlap. 
A piece of tape should be sewed on underneath ]/ 2 inch from the edge, on which to 
firmly fasten the buttons. A curved front should be cut with only a seam sewing on 
an underlapping edge on the left side and face the basque \)/ z inch all around. In put- 
ting the garment on much of its artistic appearance depends on the manner in which 
it is fitted to the form. An ill-fitting corset is certain to produce a worse-fitting dress. 
The bands of the skirt, etc., should be placed low down on the waist, and the under- 
garment free from wrinkles. Then commence at the waist and button upwards, mean- 
while arranging the bust so that it will fall gracefully over the form. Then button 
from the waist down. This being done and all the necessary precautions strictly 
observed a smooth and artistic fit will be the result. 

-^•tHe poLoNaise, princess, etc.-^- 

Draft a plain basque pattern with a wide hip dart. Extend the base line of the 
front straight down below the waist (38 inches) the length from the waist to the floor, 
and allow for hem, when the bottom is not to be faced. You next decide how wide to 
make the bottom of the skirt at the floor. For a lady measuring 40 inches around the 
hips zy 2 yards would be a medium width. l]/ 2 yards is 90 inches, half of the skirt at 
the floor is 45 inches. Always make the width of the front at the floor 3-5 of the 45 
inches, which is 27 inches and extend the back seam of the underarm piece down on 
the slant necessary to make the front 27 inches wide at the floor. It is generally 
draped or fulled along this seam to correspond with the changes of fashion. The back 
and side pieces should be moved about 6 inches apart on the same waist line. Then 
continue the curves of the back and sidepieces straight down until they come together 
about 13 inches below the waist. This makes one skirt, of the skirts of the back, and 
sidepieces. The center seam of the back is extended down in a straight line (39 inches) 
the length required at the back from the waist to the floor. The side seam over the 
hip is already drafted 7 inches below the waist, continue it straight down the grain of 
the goods so as to make the width of this piece at the floor (18 inches) the remaining 
2-5 of (45 inches) the width of half the skirt at the floor. The back, side, underarm, 
and front pieces can be extended down separately, making the back piece 8 inches, the 
side 10 inches, the underarm 12 inches and the front 15 inches wide at the floor. This 
is only done when the material is narrow. Make the plaits, when required, wide 
enough to take in all the slant. These plaits may be added from 1 to 6 inches below 
the waist line, and may have one in the center of the back or two more between the 
side and back pieces. Different drapings will give as many varieties of styles as may 
be desired, and the same skirt with the back and sidepieces together, without drapings, 
is used for several kinds of garments. Polonaise, princess, long coats, ulsters, dusters, 
waterproofs, etc., are all constructed on the same general plan. Add a train when 
required. 






FOR SCIENTIFIC DRESS AND SLEEN/E CUTTlNC. 23 



-^•SKIRT CUTTING.-^ 

Make a plain or gored skirt with a full breadth of goods in front, one or two pieces 
on the side, and a full breadth in the back. In making this skirt the number of pieces 
and the size of each depends on the size of the lady and the width of the material used. 
A skirt for a medium sized person would be 24 inches at the waist, 41 inches at the hip 
and 2]/ 2 yards or 90 inches at the floor. Half the skirt at the floor would be 45 inches. 
With goods 24 inches wide, the front piece, which should always be folded, will be 12 
inches wide and 38 inches long (the front length of the skirt). Make the bottom edge 
of the front piece at a right angle from the fold line and the full width of the goods (12 
inches). Make the top of this piece 6 inches wide {% the waist measure) and cut the 
bias edge from the top to the floor. This makes the front piece 12 inches wide at the 
bottom and 6 inches wide at the top. Next reduce the width of the top from % to Ye 
of the waist measure (4 inches) by taking out of the center of the top a small dart one 
inch wide, running out 7 inches below, and another dart exactly the same size on the 
top of the bias edge. Next cut the side piece. Make the front edge straight and the 
length of the skirt. Before you decide how wide to make this piece at the floor, add 
the width at the floor of the front and back pieces together, which, as both are folded 
is 24 inches, this taken from 45 inches, half of the skirt at the bottom, leaves 21 as the 
correct width to make the side piece at the floor. Make the top 8 inches wide (Y the 
waist measure) and cut the bias edge from the waist to the floor. At each side of the 
top take off a dart t inch wide, and take out of the center another dart 2 inches wide, 
all three running out 7 inches below. This will leave the piece 4 inches wide at the top 
(Yb the waist measure). The back piece is generally a straight piece of full width goods 
the required length and gathered on the band. Should two breadths be used on the 
back, make the side and front pieces the same width. A gored back piece when re- 
quired is made the same size as the front piece, and prevent sagging by covering the 
seam with a tape. You can add a pointed, round, or square train, as the length and 
shape is regulated entirely by fashion. 




24- DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM 



<|coats, sacqUes, jackets, etc.|> 

Take the measures the same as for the basque. Before drafting the pattern for any 
outside garment it is necessary to enlarge the measures according to the thickness of 
the material or the style of garment required. For a plush sacque enlarge the neck 
measure one inch, the bust measure from I to 1^ inches, the width of back and front 
]/ 2 inch, the depth of the artnsize ]/ 2 inch, the hip measure 2 inches, shorten the length 
of the back and front each l / 2 inch and in drafting widen the back and side piece at the 
waist two sizes each. To make the front half tight leave out the bust darts entirely but 
use a hip dart from 2)/ 2 to 3 inches wide at the waist. This wide dart can b_* drafted 
the same as in the American diagram, or the hip seam may be changed to a wide dart 
by separating the front and underarm pieces until the curves below the waist do not 
cross but come to a point at the hip line. To make the front medium tight put in one 
bust dart 2.]/ 2 inches wide and half way between the base line and hip dart. Coats, 
cloaks and jackets, when tight fitting, are usually dratted with one bust dart, the wide, 
hip dart, and with the French back. This French back is merely the back and side 
pieces drafted together and not divided by a seam. This back at the waist is quite wide 
but would be improved by narrowing it one inch at the waist and widening the under- 
arm piece to correspond. Tight-fitting jackets, etc., when finished should be one inch 
larger at the waist than would be necessary for a basque. When a double-breasted 
garment is required place the base line to the front 4 inches from the edge of the goods, 
when single breasted 1 1 / 2 inch will be sufficient. Fxtend the skirt down below the 
waist, 16 inches for a coat, and as much more as you wish for a sacque or cloak. The 
coat or cloak sleeve is generally preferred for outside garments. 1 o prevent mistakes, 
the enlarged measures should always be written down. Do not forget to allow seams. 

<1H0W TO DRAFT FOR cHlLDREN.|> 

(SEE FRENCH DIAGRAM.) 
The pattern for a child can best be drafted by the French system. Do not take 
very tight measures, and as the garment is not drafted below the waist the hip measure 
is unnecessary. Draft the upper portion cf the pattern in the same manner as the 
French diagram except line 4 which is drafted % of an inch below the bust line. Lo- 
cate pt. 24 on the armhole curve one inch below pt. 5. Draw the waist line straight 
across from pt. 12 to pt. 14. Locate pts. 19, 20 and 26 on the waist line, and pt. 25 
on the armhole curve the same as in diagram. Draft the outlines of the back, side and 
front pieces. No hip, or bust darts are necessary, although a small bust dart is some- 
times used. When made to button at the back, allow ^ of an inch for lap. When 
necessary to continue the garment below the wa'st allow about six inches fullness at 
the hip line. Allow seams around each piece except at the armhole and neck. A nice 
sleeve for a child can be drafted the same as the cloak sleeve. 



S.QEJVTS WAJXTTER 



To cut and make garments of every description that will conform 
with the prevailing fashion and fit perfectly is an acquirement that 
any lady will find both valuable and economic. To the wealthy the 
ability to correctly superintend the cutting and making of garments 
for family use is both a pleasure and a saving while to the poor it is 
a necessity. With DEVEREAUX'S FRENCH SYSTEM any lady of 
ordinary intelligence can easily and quickly learn to cut and make 
dresses and sleeves that will fit perfectly without change or alteration. 
This is just what dressmakers require for their own use and for ap- 
prentices, it being perfect fitting, stylish, and easily taught. Sewing 
girls can double their earnings by using it and in families doing their 
own sewing it saves many times the cost. We want an active, enter- 
prising agent (dressmaker preferred) in every locality, and our terms 
are so liberal that most of our agents make very satisfactory wages. 
The business is light and pleasant and nothing can be more honor- 
able or useful than teaching necessary knowledge. The work is 
especially adapted to ladies around their homes, while to ladies or 
gentlemen who can travel it opens up a field of labor extremely 
desirable. For further information address, 

O. L. WETTERHALL, 
Oconomowoc, ... Wisconsin. 



imS? 0F INGRESS 

MP. 

Ir^^EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS recein/ed||e^ 

O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: I have used Devereaux's System nearly three years and am very 
much pleased with it. Please let me know the price by the half dozen, and oblige 

MRS. F. T. WILLIAMS, Room 35, Fletcher Blk, Wichita, Kansas. 

O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: Please send me immediately y 2 dozen Devereaux's Systems by ex- 
press C. O. D. I am having splendid success with the system, and cannot recommend 
it too highly. Miss MILLIE HIGGINS, West Bay City, Mich. 



O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: About four years ago I learned Devereaux's System and have since 
used it with perfect succes. I would like the agency for San Antonio and vicinity. Let 
me hear from you as soon as possible, and oblige, MRS. F. A. RLDDICK, 

No. 4f5 Ave. H, San Antonio, Texas. 



O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: Alter using many different systems of drafting I find Devereaux's 
System superior to all. I have used it for six years. It is the only system I have seen 
that drafts perfect fitting dresses and sleeves for ladies of all sizes and shapes, without 
refitting. It is easy to learn, and is just what dressmakers require for themselves and 
for apprentice girls. MRS. H. A. BUDD, 

Pond Block, Elyria, Ohio. 

O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: Please send me four Devereaux's Systems at once. I have a dress- 
making shop here, and four apprentices who want the system. 1 bought one several 
years ago of your agent in Dakota, and like it very much indeed. I would like the sole 
agency of Santa Clara County. HELEN A. CARPENTER, 

Arlington Block, Rooms 4 and 5, San Jose, Cal. 

O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: I am running a dressmaking shop here and use Devereaux's System. 
I learned it two years ago of Mrs. J. M. Hunt at Waverly, Iowa, and think it is per- 
fection. My customers are delighted to have garments niade without refitting. As I 
have several girls who wish to learn please send me a half dozen Systems by express 
C. O. D. without delay. BARTLETT & BARTLETT, 

Cedar Falls, Iowa. 

O. L. WETTEBHALL. 

Dear Sir: I have been dressmaking for twenty years and have tried all kinds 
of models, machines, etc., without success Most of them were merely proportional 
scales, using only four aclual measures, and required so much refitting as to be almost 
worthless. With Devereaux's System, however, I have had grand success, as it needs 
no refitting, is easy to teach, and the sleeves are perfection. I would not take $100.00 
for mine if I could not get another. MRS. H. R. THOMSON, 

Owatonna, Minn. 

O. L. WETTERHALL. 

Dear Sir: During my twenty odd years of dress making I have taught several 
different systems and am familiar with S. T. Taylor's, McDowell's, and other methods 
of drafting. For the last six years I have used and taught Devereaux's System with 
perfedl satisfaction and success. It requires no guesswork or refitting, is easily taught 
and the sleeves are beautiful and perfect fitting. Many of my former pupils, who are 
now leading dressmakers of St. Paul and other cities, owe their success largely to the 
superiority of Devereaux's System. MRS. J. B. DUNNING, 

River. Falls, Wis. 



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